Ladder Hill

 

 

“Ladder Hill” est un ensemble de constructions situées à une hauteur de 300 mètres environ, reliée à Jamestown par un escalier construit en 1830 ; auparavant, c'est à dire avant le percement de la route, on utilisait une montée bordée de cordes et le nom de Ladder Hill se trouve dans des documents de 1693. C'était l'endroit choisi pour les exécutions et c'est donc là que des esclaves enchaînées étaient pendus, éventrés, écartelés et coupées en quartiers.

La Compagnie des Indes avait un observatoire, établi en 1824, qui fut bientôt fermé et les instruments envoyés au Canada...

L' “échelle de Jacob” actuelle fut dessinée et construite par le gouverneur Dallas de 1828 à 1836. L'argent fut ramassé sur place et fourni par 353 actionnaires puis en 1832 la Compagnie des Indes racheta les parts pour la somme de £ 882.l0.0. C'était au début un simple plan incliné ou funiculaire et en 1832 un certain Mr. Hoar, organiste locale, inventa une voiture "sûre" qui ne tomberait pas, en cas de rupture du câble.

Au moment du transfert à la Couronne, cette sorte de tramway tomba en désuétude faute d'entretien jusqu'en 1871 quand il fut remis en état par les militaires des Royal Engineers, pour la somme de £ 846. En voici les caractéristiques :

Longueur : 933 pieds soit environ 315 mètres

Hauteur des marches : 11 inches soit environ 27 cm.

Hauteur : 602 pieds soit environ 200 mètres.

Nombre de marches : 699

Degré de pente moyen: 39

Degré de pente maximum : 44

 

Les premières fortifications datent de 1776, elles furent continuées en 1779 puis remises en état de 1824 à 1827. Les bâtiments existants datent de 1873. Au temps de Napoléon, les troupes régulières logeaient ici, prêtes à intervenir, les régiments de Sainte-Hélène étant jugés peu sûrs.

La route menant du Castle à Ladder Hill fut percée en 1717 et l'on peut encore voir les traces de son abrupt zigzag. La route actuelle fut taillée entre 1770 et l882. Le sentier appelé "Alexander Short Cut", un raccourci de Jamestown à Ladder Hill, a été mis en place par le capitaine Alexander, qui travailla à l'exhumation du corps de l'Empereur en 1840.

"High Rock", d'où tomba un formidable éboulement en 1890, est bien connu des habitants, en ce qu'il évoque le nom du colonel Pieri, un officier du génie de la Compagnie des Indes, bâtisseur de la cathédrale St. Paul : cet officier avait si peur de cet amas de rocs qu'il lançait son cheval au galop quand il passait dessous... Le brave officier mourût tranquillement dans son lit en 1812 et après un éboulement, en 1824, l'énorme rocher porta son nom. Deux autres endroits de la route ont des noms : "Emery's Jump”, en souvenir du sergent John Emery que son cheval précipita dans le ravin et "Frenchman's Leap" en souvenir du consul de France, Georges Peugeot, dont la voiture roula du haut de la route jusque dans les jardins des maisons de Jamestown - sans mal ni pour les uns ni pour les autres ...

 

 

Il y avait aussi là "l'Institution Militaire", où l'on faisait l'éducation technique de jeunes officiers, se chargeait du relevé topographique de l'île et fournissait l'heure exacte pour les communications maritimes. Le bureau du Temps fut transféré dans un bâtiment au-dessus de l'ancienne Prison pour Dettes, également installée là. Quand le gouvernement local refusa de remplacer le seul chronomètre existant dans l'île, le bureau fut fermé et les quelques instruments restant dispersés au Castle et à Plantation House.

 

Jusqu’à la fin de la seconde guerre mondiale, “Ladder Hill” a été utilisé à des fins militaires.

  

Mount Pleasant

 

Une des belles maisons de l'île, achetée par William Doveton en 1786 à un certain Matthew Bazett.

 

La maison actuelle a été reconstruite par W.A. Thorpe en 1904. La maison figure dans les annales de l'exil car c'est là que Napoléon a fait une de ces dernières sorties et qu'il prit le petit déjeuner dans le jardin - une visite dont Doveton rendit compte à Lowe dans une lettre qui est un chef d'œuvre de bêtise et de vanité.

Je vous la livre ci-dessous, telle quelle… avec toutes ses ratures:

 

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Extract from the Lowe Paper, vol. 20.131 :

Sir William Doveton’s relation of the visit he received from General Bonaparte on the 4th October 1820.

Mount Pleasant St Helena

7th October 1820.

On Wednesday the 4^th Inst, taking my On the morning of the 4^th October as the old gentleman was taking his usual walk before breakfast, a little before eight O’ Clock, I observed he observed several persons on horseback, coming towards from Stitches Ridge. I went into the his house, and on looking recognising them with my his spyglasses, perceived they were the persons party from Longwood. I went to my Daughter’s, Mrs. Greentree’s Room, and told her I apprehended we were likely to have a visit from Bonaparte. On returning to the Drawing Room I saw General

Count Montholon dismountinged from his Horse, and Sir William went to the door to receive him, he The Count informed me, him that the Emperor (to use his own words) presented his compliments, and requested he might come down and rest himself. I returned my compliments, The good knight Sir William replied that he I should be glad to see him, and that any accommodation my his house afforded was at General Bonaparte’s service.

He Montholon then mounted his horse, and rode off to having joined the party; shortly after they all entered the lawn. The party consisted of General Bonaparte, General Bertrand, General Montholon, and three domestics. They dismounted about thirty yards from the front door. I advanced to meet them and Unfortunately the WorthyVenerable Knight was quite ignorant of the French language and could only communicate through the medium of Count Bertrand whose knowledge of English was not as perfect as it might have been. However Sir William made my his compliments in the best manner I he could and as not being acquainted with the French language. General Bonaparte appeared a good deal fatigued and stood for about a minute looking about I intimated to General Bertrand, that as General Bonaparte seemed fatigued, I wished he he would walk in and rest himself – upon which he advanced towards the door, and on coming up the steps, was assisted by with the arm of General Bertrand’s arm. He sat on the sofa and entered into conversation with his host though Sir through Bertrand as interpreter I offered General Bonaparte Armed chair but he preferred the sofa – he soon noticed through General Bertrand, that I had changed the furniture, since he was here, that there were two sofas, and that the chairs were different. - I explained that having retired from the East India Company’s Service, I had no residence in Town, as the House I occupied before leaving the Island became the residence of my Successor in Office, and that the Furniture he then saw, was what I used in Town. General Bonaparte soon after through General Bertrand, asked how I liked England^(a ? I answered, it was a very fine Country, but that I was satisfied with S^t. Helena. General Bonaparte then noticed my Observing Sir William’s eldest Grand-daughter, and in the room he said, he supposed she was about ten years old . I He was told him, she was only seven and he called her to him, placed two of his fingers over her nose, and gave her a small bit piece of Liquorice, which he took from a small Tortoiseshell box. Sir William Doveton observed General begged Bertrand to inform General Bonaparte, that he hoped he would stop and breakfast with us him, but which this the illustrious visitor declined, saying, they had brought their own Breakfast and I then asked which of the rooms General Bonaparte would have the breakfast laid in, and was answered by General Bertrand, that he preferred taking it on the lawn. I Sir William endeavoured, through General Bertrand to dissuade him from this, saying that the House and whatever accommodation he I could afford, was at their service and shewing General Bonaparte and Bertrand into the Dining Room, he took Bonaparte and Bertrand into the drawing dining room where he pointed to a large pat of fresh butter on the from breakfast table being laid and said saying it was at his General Bonaparte’s the service of his Guests, he upon this Buonaparte with a smile of approbatory gave him a look of smiling approbation smiled and and gently took hold of my his host’s right ear and gave as was his custom when he wishes to signify his approval. I have heard, that General Bonaparte’s custom of taking children by the nose, and grown persons by the ear is considered as a mark of in token of favour approbation.

We They then returned to the Drawing room, and General Bonaparte resumed his seat on the sofa. Soon afterwards their, one of Sir William’s daughters, Mrs Greentree came into the room, with her youngest child (a Boy) in her arms, and Napoleon General Bonaparte rose and pointeding to the sofa as a sign that she was desired her to sit there. her other Two of her little girls Ann and Eliza came also had each of whom had their noses taken hold of by the great man by the affable visitor and received from him a small piece of Liquorice. from the affable visitor who remarked that he observed, through General Bertrand, they were all fine healthy looking children. While I had been engaged with Generals Bonaparte and Bertrand, General In the meantime Count Montholon had got a table out and laid it upon the lawn. Finding they were determined to breakfast in the air, I desired M^rs. Greentree to send out fresh butter, jelly and whatever else she might judge acceptable – eggs, radishes, and water cresses were also sent. Sir William Doveton sent out a variety of good things and then The Count General Montholon came in and announced that breakfast was ready. I Their host was requested to go out and partake with them share their meal, which I he did after a short time, taking with me him, he said “a pint Bottle of Mount Pleasant Water (alias, orange shrub) made by his my daughter, and f- our Liqueur glasses” General Bonaparte had reserved for me him a chair on his right hand, and desired me him to sit there. One of the domestics (by directions I imagine) placed before me a slice I believe of potted meat, and I was desired to eat. I tasted a small bit, but not being accustomed to eat meat for breakfast, soon laid my knife and fork down. The plate was removed and replaced by some curried food of this I also tasted. After doing justice to some substantial foods --- After this General Bonaparte filled for Sir William a small tumbler of Champagne for Sir William and himself another for himself of which I drank a little and he afterwards he drank a glass of the host’s .Mount Pleasant Water.^x General Bertrand and Montholon did the same. Coffee was then brought of which I drank a little, General and Bonaparte requested that M^rs. Greentree would come out and take a little of his coffee partake of it. I went and handed her out – he drew a chair near him, and a cup was brought her, she made a pretence of drinking it, but she has since told me, she did not like it – it had an acid taste – this I and enquired of General Bertrand what had been put into it, to give it that taste? he assured me nothing whatever, it was without any mixture. After this General she had tasted this coffee which --- found acid ----disagreeable Bonaparte filled a Liqueur glass with Mount Pleasant Water shrub and offered it to her M^rs. Greentree, to himself, Generals Bertrand and Montholon taking a glass also. General Bertrand had a glass of Noycase brought to me of which I drank a little. After this The party then rose and General Bonaparte handed M^rs.. Greentree into the house, where he took his old former seat on the sofa, with her beside him.and Mrs. Greentree aside of him; having sat some little time, in order as I imagine that the domestics might get their breakfast After sitting a little time sitting some time he rose and took leave, taking General holding Bertrand’s arm as he went down the steps and mounted his horse, General Bertrand being alongside of him in mounting (whether he afforded him any assistance to General Bonaparte I cannot say). Their stay at Mount Pleasant was rather more than two hours. “The breakfast Sir William tells us consisted of a cold pie, potted meat, cold turkey, curried fowl, ham or pork, I could not tell which, coffee, dates, almonds, oranges, and a very fine salad. From every appearance but his pale colour, it might be concluded that General Bonaparte was in good health, his face is astonishingly fat, and his body and thighs very round and plump.” In following General Bonaparte into the house after breakfast in company with General Montholon, I observed to the latter that General Bonaparte was very pale, although very fat. He answered, placing his hand on the right side, that the ^“Emperor” had the liver complaint. General Bertrand asked me during the conversation why I did not wear my Insignia, I answered, there was not any attached (or words to that purpose) to Knights of my Order.

(Signed) W. W. Doveton

N.B.

“In addition to what Sir William Doveton which certainly was not flattering to our, has above related he has also mentioned that General Bonaparte and asked him through Count Bertrand whether he ever got drunk? to which Sir William replied, rather of coyness remark equivocally, “I like a glass of wine sometimes”. He then said turned to M^rs. Greentree and enquired. “How often does your Husband get drunk?” is he so once a week? she replied answered “No” – “is he once a fortnight”- she again replied “no” – once a month? – She then said “No, - It is some years since I saw him so. Bonaparte then said “Bah” and asked some other question ⁽¹⁾ and change the conversation to English words ⁽¹⁾

During the breakfast on the lawn, General Bonaparte kept his hat on. Counts Bertrand and Montholon had theirs off. Sir William Doveton preserved his on, after the first salute constantly, whilst in the open air.

M^r. Greentree, the son-in-law of Sir William Doveton, is one of the members of Council, and a person of highly regular and sober habits. M^rs. Greentree is a person of remarkably gentle and retired manners.

It was the first time she had ever seen General Bonaparte.

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(1) Footnote - It is I fear little complimentary to our national character --- that time to find how frequently Napoleon put this question and it is humiliating to think that he was so often justified in –it.